It isn't easy picking a clearcoat either. If the part was originally clearcoated or clear anodized, it's probably a good alloy for brightness but if you stripped paint off of it, it's probably an alloy that wasn't intended to retain brightness and doesn't do as well. Remember that there are countless grades of aluminum, and some are optimized for clearcoating while others aren't. I have heard of people using UV resistant clear coats. I have tried many different things and I'm now ready to do whatever it takes to make them look show quality but very easy to maintain. I am trying to find the best way to keep the aluminum parts on my motorcycle their mirror finish a long time and make them EASY to clean. What is the secret to coating polished aluminum with an extremely clear, long lasting protective application? Commercially available "Aluminum Clearcoat" products have proven unsatisfactory. ![]() In some cases the original Japanese factory applied clearcoat has turned to a yellowish color. The clearcoat is so unobtrusive that a lot of enthusiasts do not realize it is there. My problem is identifying the clearcoat applied to these polished aluminum pieces. I am inquiring about polished aluminum, specifically the polished engine case pieces of 1970s motorcycles. ↓ Closely related postings, oldest first ↓ (Readers are encouraged to enjoy the camaraderie of this site, which would require your real name because we have countless posters with the name Smith, including others from Kansas). And several clear coats have been suggested by name here over the years. Two-component automotive clearcoats will probably work well enough. ![]() Brass lacquer is designed to be stripped and repeated every few years. Protectaclear from Everbrite is a thin single-component clearcoat that you could probably add to every couple of years. Anodizing is probably impractical under the circumstances, so you should pick a clear coat.
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